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Home Inspection Guides & Checklists
Practical checklists for Northeast Florida homeowners, buyers and sellers. Published in full, on the page, with no email required.
Mon–Sat 8am–6pm · InterNACHI certified, Florida licensed and insured · 20+ years construction and renovation experience
Why these are not gated
It is standard practice in this industry to put a checklist behind an email form. We publish ours in full instead, for two reasons. The first is practical: gated content is invisible to search engines, and on a site whose entire strategy is organic visibility, hiding the most useful pages behind a wall is a bad trade.
The second is that a checklist you have to trade your details for is a worse checklist. These are meant to be printed and carried around the house with a flashlight in the other hand. If they are useful, and you later need a real inspection, the phone number is at the top of every page. That seems like a fairer arrangement than holding a checklist hostage.
What these guides assume, and what they cannot do
Everything here is written for Northeast Florida specifically rather than for Florida generally, because the difference is substantial. A pre-1940 masonry house in downtown St. Augustine and a 2003 slab house in Nocatee have almost nothing in common: one is a question about coquina and lime mortar, retrofitted wiring and decades of accumulated moisture, the other about polybutylene supply lines, first-generation HVAC replacements and the Chinese drywall window between 2001 and 2009. A Jacksonville bungalow brings cast iron drain lines. A Palm Coast block house from the ITT era brings roof-to-wall connection and opening protection questions. Advice written for one is frequently irrelevant to another and occasionally wrong.
The checklists assume you own or are about to own the property and can walk it safely. They are built around what a capable person can genuinely assess with a flashlight, a phone camera, a moisture-sensitive eye and reasonable care — visible roof condition from the ground, gutter and downspout discharge, grading and drainage at the foundation, window and door operation, visible plumbing under sinks, water stains on ceilings, HVAC age from the data plate, GFCI test buttons, and the smell and feel of a room that has a moisture problem.
What they cannot do is replace a licensed inspection, and it is worth being specific about why rather than waving at it. The findings that actually change a transaction are usually the ones that require either access you do not have or interpretation you have no reason to possess. Roof covering condition and its remaining service life are assessed from the roof or the eaves, not the driveway. Attic framing, insulation depth and the roof-to-wall connections that an insurance carrier cares about are assessed from inside the attic. Crawl space moisture, subfloor condition and pier settlement are assessed from inside the crawl space, which in older Putnam and Clay county housing is frequently the single most informative part of the visit and the part nobody wants to enter.
Interpretation matters as much as access. Recognising that a panel is a brand with a known failure history, that a supply line is polybutylene rather than PEX, that a water heater is past its expected life rather than merely old, that a crack pattern is cosmetic settlement rather than structural movement — these are not observations, they are judgements, and getting them wrong in either direction is expensive. A checklist that told you to treat every crack as a foundation problem would cost you more than it saved.
There is also a category of work that no home inspection covers regardless of who performs it. Wood-destroying organism inspection is a separate licence in Florida, regulated by the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, and it produces its own report — a home inspection notes visible evidence and conducive conditions and refers out. The same applies to structural engineering assessments, mold testing, and septic and well testing. If a guide here points at something in one of those categories, it is pointing at who to call, not offering a substitute.
So treat these as the thing that catches problems early and tells you when to call someone — not as a substitute for a full inspection before you buy, before you list, or when an insurance carrier asks for documentation.
The guides
The Northeast Florida Home Buyer's Inspection Guide
What to inspect, when to schedule it, and how to read the findings when buying a home in St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Palm Coast or Daytona Beach.
Read the guide →The Florida Wind Mitigation Guide
What the OIR-B1-1802 form credits, which features matter most, and when to order an inspection so you actually capture the discount.
Read the guide →How to Prepare for a Florida 4-Point Inspection
What insurers are screening for across roof, electrical, plumbing and HVAC — and what you can address before the inspector arrives.
Read the guide →Hurricane Season Home Readiness Checklist
A before-and-after checklist for Northeast Florida homes — what to reinforce, what to document, and what to inspect once the storm has passed.
Read the guide →The Home Seller's Pre-Inspection Repair Guide
What to fix before listing, what to disclose instead, and how a pre-listing inspection changes the negotiation in your favour.
Read the guide →
How to use these alongside a professional inspection
The most productive way to use these guides is as the thing that happens twice a year, with a professional inspection at the points where something is actually at stake — before you buy, before you list, when a carrier asks, and periodically once a house passes twenty years old. They are not substitutes for each other and they catch different problems.
Your own walk catches change. You know what the ceiling above the hall looked like last spring because you photographed it, so a faint new stain stands out. You know the AC used to keep up in August. You know the back door used to close without a shove. That kind of drift is genuinely valuable information and it is precisely what an inspector visiting once cannot give you, because he has no baseline. Bring it to the inspection — a homeowner who says “that stain appeared in June” has narrowed a roof question to a specific weather event.
The professional inspection catches what you structurally cannot see or cannot reasonably interpret. Roof covering condition and installation quality. Attic framing, ventilation and the roof-to-wall connections that determine what goes on a wind mitigation form. Crawl space moisture and subfloor condition. Electrical panel brand, breaker sizing and the condition of the service entrance. Whether the supply plumbing is a material with a known failure history. Whether the HVAC is at the end of its life or the middle. An inspection that skipped the attic and the crawl space has skipped the two places where the expensive findings live.
Used together they change the economics considerably, because building problems in this climate compound rather than accumulate steadily. Moisture is the common thread in almost all of it: a gutter discharging at the foundation becomes grading failure becomes crawl space humidity becomes subfloor decay. A roof fastener that starts weeping becomes sheathing damage becomes a framing repair. A condensate line that backs up becomes an air handler failure. Catching any of those at the first stage is a few hundred dollars of maintenance; catching them at the third is a contract renegotiation.
A practical note on record-keeping. Photograph from the same few positions each time — the roof from the street, each elevation, the water heater and air handler data plates, the electrical panel with the cover on, the crawl space entry — and keep the images dated alongside a short note of what you found and what you did. Beyond making drift visible, that record settles the most common insurance dispute after a storm: whether damage was caused by the event or was pre-existing wear, which is excluded under essentially every policy. It also shortens the conversation considerably when you eventually sell.
Finally, know which findings end the walk and start a phone call. Any smell of gas. Any scorching, buzzing or warmth at an electrical panel or outlet. Active water running where it should not be. A floor that has gone visibly out of level since you last noticed. Standing water in a crawl space. A ceiling stain that is growing rather than stable. None of those are checklist items to be noted and carried on past — they are reasons to stop and get someone qualified in front of it.
Found something you do not like?
Call 904-806-7679 and describe it to William Knight. He inspects the property himself and sends a detailed photo report, usually within 24 hours.
Mon–Sat 8am–6pm · 20+ years construction and renovation experience · InterNACHI certified, licensed and insured
